Marvelous, Magnificant Month of March in the Cape

It has been a month, and I am finally finding a moment to share a few experiences with you. Given I embark tomorrow morning on my Easter break which will take me to Zambia and Botswana for ten days; I thought it appropriate to take a moment now to share my adventures of the past month.

My birthday

My 21st birthday, will go down in record as the most awesomely adventurous, eventful and personal day since I arrived! I woke at 5:45 and headed to the beach with my harp and friends to witness the morning sunrise. As I played my harp, the sun came up over the horizon blending with the sky in an awesome array of orange and yellow glow. The beach was cool and refreshing allowing me to lap in its presence and frolic in my bare feet. As the wind played my harp strings, I plucked notes to my favorite songs, marking the transition to another year. I proceeded to return home to prepare for the “Green Market” where I got an awesome muffin and Belgian waffle, yes even in South Africa. I proceeded to splurge on other goodies like a falafel, which I saved to enjoy during my adventures with penguins. Upon my return home, five friends and I headed to Boulders Beach to swim with penguins. Yes, you got me; swim with penguins was what we did. The penguins walk along the beach independently and in groups. You just hang and interact with them or find yourself in the water as one waddles by. I got to see some really cute penguins running, diving and playing together. Getting so close to them, in the wild, on my birthday was just AWESOME. You know me and penguins, it speaks for itself. This adventure with the train travel and walk to the beach encompassed the afternoon and into the evening. When I returned home, I scurried to arrive in time for my choir concert down at City Hall of Cape Town. Upon my arrival there, my birthday was celebrated thoroughly with announcements and singing. I returned home, with 30 minutes of my birthday left and a house party, where I danced and enjoyed the remaining time with friends! All in all I was up 22 to hours, for even me, impressive. Yeah, that is what I thought. Well I don’t think I could have spent my birthday in a better place and doing more fun activities, thus, I am so thankful and appreciative for the opportunity to study abroad in this country and experience something so different from the U.S., a breathe of fresh air!

Finding Ntonga Music School:

As most of you will remember, from my harp recital, I chose to raise money for the Ntonga Music School situated in the township of Guguletu on the outskirts of Cape Town. Anyway, after diligently searching the internet to find the schools location, I came upon a blog post inviting friends to the schools structural completion. I copied down this information. Having met a friend recently that went to this township every Sunday, I asked him kindly if he would help me find this school. He agreed and on February 28th, we found the school after a few wrong turns, poor directions and a confusing hand written map by meJ When we got to the address some men were standing outside the house. I walked up to one and asked him, “is this the Ntonga Music” with a smile he replied, “yes.” I proceeded to ask, “and where might I find Pokie,” (the man whose vision it was to create the school,) he smiled and replied “that’s me.” we quickly started conversing. I told him about where I was from, how I figured out about this school and that I had seen him on the computer playing along to “Stand by Me” on his bass. We exchanged numbers. Since this meeting I have returned every Sunday playing my harp with Pokie on bass and other musicians in the township. Recently he encouraged me to amplify my harp given his electric bass, and the saxophone and trumpet whom had joined in our jazz jam sessions drowned me out completely. I purchased a pickup and now have a voice amidst the flamboyant saxophone and trumpet. In the past weeks we have recorded some fun slow jazz pieces as well as just improved together. My goal is to teach a few kids to play the harp and bring a small harp from the U.S., which they can keep and use to learn to play. What has been most enjoyable about my trips to the school, is the atmosphere, the warm friendly feeling I get upon my return each week, and simply the talent, joy and spirit imbedded within the group I play with. Our music often times wafts into the street intriguing street stragglers who peak in to get a taste of the melodies. It’s beautiful to watch young kids and even babies enter into the room, wide eyed with joy as they stare at the unfamiliar shape and sound of my instrument. Some just sit and watch as my strings move, others, they want to get in on the action. One thing that strikes me about South African culture, is the love and joy I find in people. As one of my friends put it, “South Africa breaks your heart but strengthens your soul.” Pokie and his friends are always so warming. Maybe because I am a white girl amidst all black south African men. No, its really something deeper. There is an indescribable level of appreciation for me, who I am and my passion for music. As we improvise together, each musician enters into a realm of complete peace where melodies, rhythm, and creativity meld releasing tensions from the week. Thus, I am so thankful to have found an outlet where I can play my instrument, learn from others and share with them my joy, music on the harp!

Fearing I would not find the Ntonga Music School, I also got involved with a volunteer group on campus, SHAWCO. This group goes into different townships weakly offering a variety of skills. I picked the arts program and have created my own curriculum doing a drumming circle with 12 6th grade boys. This experience has taught me a lot. I volunteer in Manenber, a township known for its level of violence and crime. Well, with that in mind, drumming with 6th grade boys is quite a challenge. By the time I arrive around 2:30, they are ready to be let loose using the drumming lesson as an energy outlet. During my first few sessions with them, my body felt like it had gone surfing, something that would exhaust a person like myself whom often battles rather than rides waves. While I have worked with youth before in a variety of settings, those experiences had not prepared me for the township experience. These kids fought to get a seat and drum enabling them to participate in the drumming circle. Once all boys were seated, kids from outside would occasionally come in to disrupt the already chaotic circle while kids drumming rather than following my instructions, would hit the drum full force. Through my weekly visits to this township, I have learned that you must first gain the kids respect. You have to be patient and wait for them to get to know you. Once you have done that, they begin to care about you and listen to your instructions. While there are always those few that just don’t seem to care, the majority have come to really try, listen and respond to my instructions. Now, when I pull out my harp, they all hush and listen to a melody slowly and quietly drumming once they find the underlying pulse. Thus, through trial and error, hard days and soar throat days, I have come to really enjoy the children and boys specifically that I work with, noting their personalities, and in turn, responding accordingly.

Last weekend marked some awesome experiences. First, even Cape Town celebrates the 11th Hour, yes, lights out, that’s right. I decided to climb to the edge of Table Mountain with a group of musicians. There we camped out in Table Mountain National Park for a couple of hours, eating, drinking, singing, playing music and telling stories. Illuminated by candles, the experience was beautiful, magical and everything I wanted. I was able to play music with some awesome percussionists including drummers, tambourines and a guitar. The music flowed beginning with improve and moving to singing US then South African songs as the stars shone above and the constellations revealed themselves during the darker of the hours. The evening was so magical in how it unfolded. Lots of fun people playing music, singing, dancing, and just enjoying, and appreciating life, away from the city, in the natural hills overlooking this magnificent city!

I woke early the next morning, proceeding to the Ntonga Music school with my camera, recorder, harp and my heart excited as always. Upon my arrival I documented the changes that continue to occur upon each weekly visit. The school finally has a locking system, signs and solid structure. After documenting the site and talking with Pokie, I spent a little while teaching one kid to play chords to one Jazz song on the harp. He was a fast learner which impressed me and Pokie alike. We continued with playing and recording music we worked on last week with an additional instrument, a drum. This was a good addition. However the guy did not know exactly what he was doing, so I spent a little while teaching him before the actual beat was worth recording. Once we got going, I re-reminded Pokie about the song he had been apart of recording for the documentary “Playing for Change.” He quickly picked up the chords and with a smile of joy and remembrance began the foundational chord structure as I provided the melody I had been working on for a few weeks. Soon we were joined by two trumpets and a saxophone making the session, lively, vibrant, and actually pretty indescribable.

As many of you know, I love singing. However, I chose to pursue a musical instrument all these year. Yet, whenever I am in quite spaces, or alone, I start singing, sometimes totally unaware of my action. Upon arriving and getting settled at UCT, I thought, why not join the UCT choir. So I auditioned, got in and am now singing weekly with a group of about forty vocalists. The experience is fun, rejuvenating and offers a new social community and break from my evenings of work. While we predominately sing classical music, the black and white South African friends I am making has been both eye opening and rewarding.

The last experience and highlight of March I would like to share with you, was hiking up to the top of Lions Head on full moon. Lions head is a mountain that sticks up between the sea and Cape Town. On full moon, everyone ascends the magnificent rock to watch as the sun disappears behind the sea painting the rock red like the Grand Canyon while the moon, gold and handsome in the sky, climbs effortlessly into the night. The hike took about an hour. I chose to embark on the mission because it only takes place once a month. Once I reached the top of the mountain, the sun slipped behind the sea and the moon, grandiosely took center stage in the sky. The experience of observing this moment was so wildly beautiful that I could hardly open my mouth let alone articulate what my senses were taking in.

What surprises me about Cape Town is that there is always a new and fun experience just around the corner. I can never predict or imagine how something is going to be, yet when it takes place, all I can say is, wow, what an INCREDIBLE experience.

What I have also learned while being here, is, take risks, ask questions and do not be afraid to stretch your boundaries for rewards are often awaiting those who take a leap of faith.

The Delights of Cape Town

Molo (greetings in Xhosa),

My second blog has finally arrived. I thought it would be enjoyable to document the highlights of the past few weeks.

As described in my first blog, I am living in a house with 20 other international students. The majority are either from Norway or the U.S. While this was initially a bit disappointing, the house has come to feel like home. My room mate and several other students share similar values as myself which has been very rewarding . Since school has started, home has become a sanctuary for quite, reflection and sleep though I do enjoy occasional movies and dinners with housemates!

One of the more exciting discoveries since my arrival is experiencing the farmers market. Here, the market I attend is called the Green Market, where quality food including fresh breads, fruits, smoothies and more are served. During my first visit, I was almost overwhelmed by the food variety. However, more fascinating to me was the economic disparity I experienced during my second visit. I took a taxi the first time. This time I took the train with some friends and walked a few blocks to the market. Along the walk, I saw barefoot children, trash lining the street and old stray dogs and people looking tired and burnt by the sun and physical labor. Within a block, I walked through the gate into the market. Soon I was surrounded by White South Africans and international travelers like myself. This experience forced me to realize how closely divided this city is. While Cape Town still has a middle class and does not try to hide its poor, unprivileged population, it is eye opening to pass run down houses and poor families as I approach a market that offers so much bounty. I therefore continue to greatly appreciate my meals and fall in love with preparing and eating good. I do my best to always be thankful to the farmers and earth that make my meal possible.

A more challenging and laborious experience, was signing up for classes at UCT. While the UC Berkeley system is all electronic, at UCT, signing up for classes is a several step process. Lines, signatures, walking and more lines just begin to describe the experience. For each class you need a signature from the head of department. You then meet your student advisor and have them sign for it and continue to the process by bringing that signed sheet to your department building. While most faculty were very willing to sign my paper given my academic record and status as a study abroad student, I had some interesting interactions with some less willing souls who went out of there way to question me and request I show my transcript. Well I finally settled for some interesting classes including Xhosa the one of 11 official languages in South Africa. I hope to learn some greetings like the one I used to address you. Learning Xhosa will enable simple interaction with youth and family in the townships where I volunteer.

Two exciting adventures included a 6 hour hike up Devil’s Peak, a majestic mountain that towers behind UCT. The hike was awesome. Me, and a group of 14 other students with a guide, hiked through dirt, grass lands and literally ended up rock climbing. The experience was awesome offering amazing views of Cape Town, challenging hiking trails and exposure to the terrain.

My trip to Robben Island was very educational. Well known as the island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 21 of his 27 years in confinement, the guide showed my group around the island highlighting the importance of different features including where the prisoners worked and lived, providing a snapshot of their experiences. It is hard to fathom living in a prison and working daily under heat not knowing when you will if ever, be freed. The highlight of my visit was seeing Mandela’s prison cell. While the cell looked similar to the other 20 or so along the hallway, this space marked the composition of his famous book “Long Walk to Freedom.” A fascinating component of this tour was hearing about the history of the island. While it is known best as a prison where Mandela spent over two decades, it also housed the insane and sick people through the 18-19th century. As a tourist, the island also offered some pretty awesome views of Table Mountain and Lions Head, two famous mountain ranges that define the geographic makeup of the magnificent city.

The last incredible experience I want to share was going to a church service in Guguletu Township. While I am still working on finding the Ntonga Music School which resides in this township, being part of the service and singing to South African music surrounded by women, men and children living within and outside the township was awesome. Church service at this newly build Christian Church, Khanyisa, is very inclusive of youth and families encouraging singing and dancing followed by a service where we discussed different religious concepts and beliefs with those sitting in close proximity. While I do not affiliate myself with a specific religion, this opportunity really highlighted the musical, community oriented vibrancy I continue to find within townships.

Well as always, hope to hear from you and thank you for reading!

So I have never had many reasons for blogging, yet my adventures since my departure are worth posting!

As many know, I began my trip almost three weeks ago when I went to DC like many other Americans to witness the momentous inauguration of America's first African American President, Barack Obama. This event was awesome not because I was standing in thirty degree weather with a wind chill (which was considerably better than the prior weeks forecast,) but I was one of over 1 million Americans witnessing the first African American President take the sacred oath. For the first time in my 20 years as an American Citizen I felt proud, overjoyed that my flag my image and the image of all Americans was finally changing. Americans are beginning to change the way they think and act, and the inauguration speech was one example of that change. While I won't make a detailed commentary on his address given we all had the opportunity I am assuming, to watch it live. Being next to the Washington Monument in a carpet of people watching a screen where Obama was projecting and being surrounded by a multiracial crowd was an incredible moment. He is authentic, inspiring and real and I believe he will inspire the American People to follow by example.

The inauguration was something I will never forget. Standing in a crowd and feeling joy, love and unity was amazing in itself. So, thank you America for voting and YES WE CAN!!

Well, what most have been waiting for, I arrived to my final destination, Cape Town, on the afternoon of January 23rd. The first night I stayed at a bed and breakfast run by a lovely couple who invited me upon my arrival to "As You Like It," a play by William Shakespeare! Given I attended the inauguration, I arrived in Cape Town a week before my study abroad program began! So, a girl I had met at orientation and myself booked a reservation at a hostel, (definitely one of many new experiences to come...) Well the people and the hostel was absolutely AWESOME! I met both international students and Africans from South Africa and neighboring countries. My experience at the hostel was great because it enabled me to explore Cape Town and get adjusted to the culture with a small group. In the week that followed I attended fun dancing clubs, pool bars and went hiking and penguin watching which brought me to many far reaches of the Cape!

What I learned:

First and foremost, when a South African tells you to wear sunscrean, DO IT! I spent my first week with a burn across my back limiting my fun in the sun and leaving me sweating during my trips to the beach where I was confined to wearing a long sleeve shirt to protect my burn.

Staying at the hostel with other Africans was really important to initially experiencing South Africa and the Cape. I had the opportunity to interact with a variety of individuals who opened my mind to new ideas and perspectives! South Africa is a very multicultural place, which has enabled me feel more comfortable as I explore the culture with people of every skin shade.

Another realization, is adjusting to crossing the street a seemingly simple task. Unfortunetly, with cars having the right of way and Americans used to looking to the left, I have a tricky job when choosing to cross.

Going to the Townships is an experience on its own. The children there are beautiful and happy, something that at least I did not expect. They love cameras and are always willing to jump in a pose, but most striking is there love of entertaining themselves and each other. They will dance and sing for hours, bare foot.

Upon moving into my permanent housing --a huge house, I was shocked by the space and beauty. This was highlighted during my first week of orientation when I visited a township where small houses, "shacks" and space is limited. I have started asking myself questions that include, how do people live in the city knowing there is a landscape of townships only a mile or two out of town? As one greatly affected by poverty and the pain of others, it is difficult to think about children and families who survive off only a few Rand , the local currency, per day.

Well there is so much to say so I hope I have provided a brief but satisfactory flavor of my experience thus far.

I would love to hear back from you all!!